After more than six years of data collection and tiring research, I am finally able to produce these small advances on the history of Barrio Mapocho, taken from the project for which prepare and publish a book devoted entirely to this popular area of \u200b\u200bSantiago, born and raised on the banks of the city's main river.
Mapocho Barrio is like the pirate treasure chest, is known to exist but no one is. And we used to see these shores in permanent disgrace and decline: magnificent colonial bridges destroyed, or left Mapocho destroying the city mothers; a huge neon monkey now defunct, demolished hotels, brothels evicted ghosts trams and trains stations lost in time. Even the old pergolas now passed the pillory.
But perception deceptively Mapocho splendor was remembered by those who survive, perhaps the most powerful concentration bohemia that has been in the city and today we have only a faint imitation or reflux. Nothing is like him or her look: neighborhoods like Plaza Providencia, Bellavista, Lastarria and Brazil have not come close to what happened at the junction of life on the banks, with its bars and anthropology boîtes, that of writers, poets, painters and journalists took to the grave his own time. Neruda, Plath, Paschín , Isaías Cabezón, De la Vega, Recabarren, Rojas Jiménez, Nicomedes Guzmán, Teófilo Cid, De Rokha, Rakatán , Mundt ... shared space with ruffians like Cabro Eulalio, the "carrot" Berta fatal or nymph "The Take" , who was the drunken terror. On the busy streets until dawn, a strong trade was filled buns, homemade bread, tortillas, pequenes and boiled eggs. This fauna is accounted for caregivers, copetineras, prostitutes and their pimps , and the temptation bohemia splashed to Balmaceda, Amunátegui, Teatinos, including chimbera bank. Their names reflect light paving bars, clubs, cafes, dance halls, pool tables, soda fountains. Buenos Aires was like an enclave in the middle of the river, character, reinforced by the vital energy of the station and the buses from the North Terminal. Cult of fun in all its forms: greed, drink, sex sneaky, dance and party. Also fair fights and armed, as many martyrs of the night was this bohemian, earning the nickname his stables Chinatown.
Although the kingdom of the night perished, their footprints and fossils are still visible, which traces of the infinity of bowling in the record mapochino gold. The oldest was "the Guaton Bar" Henry Valenti, for example, by 1910 it had headquarters in Bridge Street 884, which will occupy the same corner after the "The Samson" in the thirties, at the foot of the missing hotel "Excelsior" . Further back in the same artery, in 798, was "Coffee Ochoa", named after the surname of their owner. But the most famous were the Flag: the "Zeppelin" the number 856, may first national cabaret, founded in 1926 by Charles Simon, going after the Black Tobar, entrepreneur manager authentically bohemian modern. " The place ended up as a store of clothing and then call center, and is now a perfume store. Had for a neighbor to "The Antoñana" Felix Gomez, then in the hands of Selim Carraha. And on the other hand, the restaurant "La Estrella de Chile." Nearby was "The Torpederas", another old cabaret relieved by the "Tabaris" the famous Godfather Aravena. The 868 that was then the "Patio Criollo, Hotel here under the flag, is now a Peruvian poultry. And the "Teutonia" refuge of anarchists and revolutionaries, had his house in the 837-843 of a building and disappeared, number that was also the venue of "Ines de Suarez," some time later. In the highlands of these premises was the coffee "Paris by Night", a favorite of Mr. Huife , the largest national sports reporter. And the "Hercules" with its famous dishes guatita, was the front in the 840, which was until recently a call center. The "Zum Rhein," however, dominated the passage number 823, now occupied by a Chinese restaurant called "The Diamond". The 815, next was the "Golden Purito, now restaurant" Far West ". In the corner was the "Venezia", \u200b\u200bthe Neruda's favorite, and in 808 the "American Bar" by Don Hector Gioro. "The Dragon" roared the side of the current mall Flag, whose high nested "The Cyclist", the first is now a clothing store and the second vanished with fires and earthquakes. Further south, the block of 700, was "The Shangay" then called "The Shack."
Old poster of "The Vulture" (Source image: "The Santiago that was" Oreste Plath).
Mapocho checkpoint in 1920, up Station Mapocho in Plaza Venezuela. Behind the missing part is observed building the ship, the Central Hotel and a wall of the former Zañartu Street where "The Piojera."
San Pablo in 1070 was "The Vulture" , then "Orleans" and now "The Empire" front "Bar Central" in 1063, the estimated Dona Martita, which is now a bowling Peru. In the market square watching the heights "Chonchi Beach, whose dining rooms are housed until recently the restaurant "The ruin of Machu Picchu." To the west was "The German Club" in front of Capuchin and "Mexican Cafe" in the corner of Morande. Nearby, the "Yes, yes, my little baby, and at 1155 the" Super Bar ". Aillavilú alley known for "The Piojera" also hosted "The Victoria", "The Basement Gussa" and "Chicha and Pig" for the brave or suicidal dive where he also ran blood. Morande 856 of the era of "La Querencia" Today "Where Pinito. General Mackenna dominated the "Valparaiso", although customers called it "The Huaso Adam" because the owner cared for this style dress. In front, in the space of number demolished 1169, was "The Clinic". Further, a club under the street level called "The Hole" for this feature. Facing the Plaza Venezuela was "El Canario Navigator. Rosas street even had other places to live in the light of Chinatown, famous in the thirties, the "Eiffel Tower" of the number 1023, which is now a fashion shop and clothing.
Finally, the list is endless. Even in the eighties there were some last bastions agony of these generations, giving the fight. And although they lost the war against time, there are still those spaces ever own, have already become dull stores. Locals were scenarios where shone the Moreno Trio, Chito Faro, Porfirio Diaz, the "blind" or Jorge Aravena April, resounding in echoes of endless nights foxtrot, jazz, cha cha, rumba, conga, cueca, tango, Nostalgic mambo ... harmony of paradise for night owls.
This was an extinction, therefore. A mass extinction ... So, then, that nothing will come close to the saga of the bohemian quarter loss of Mapocho and perhaps better well, keeping his missing treasure chest in the idealization of a legend unparalleled in the history of the city of Santiago.
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